
Off-the-map eats in Upper Darby

Neal Santos
Just west of West Philadelphia lies Upper Darby, a bustling Delaware County township with a decidedly sleepy downtown dotted with art deco storefronts. Some of these well-maintained buildings are home to hair salons, barbershops and dry cleaners that are stuck in a permanent 1987 time warp and others are home to cheerful Christian community centers.
But scattered among these untouched shops are a new (or newish) crop of restaurants specializing in cuisines that are not often found within Philly’s city limits. We’re talking about fast-casual Korean in the upstairs food court of the H Mart, Latin American fare from Honduras, El Salvador and Peru, and bright offerings from Sichuan and Laos.
Four-month-old Inka Wall is dishing up traditional Peruvian plates.
Sa Bai Dee serves solid Thai, but the Laotian offerings are what set it apart.
With Japanese, Korean and much more, H Mart's food court is a thing of beauty.
Go for the less run-of-the mill Central American options at El Cuscatleco