Sa Bai Dee serves solid Thai, but the Laotian offerings are what set it apart
Please note: This article is published as an archive copy from Philadelphia City Paper. My City Paper is not affiliated with Philadelphia City Paper. Philadelphia City Paper was an alternative weekly newspaper in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. The last edition was published on October 8, 2015.
Owned by a Thai wife and Laotian husband, Sa Bai Dee specializes in fare from both locales. And while the Thai is solid, certainly more savory and tart than the cloying pad thai and curries that most Thai spots knock out, the Laotian offerings at Sa Bai Dee are what sets this storefront apart. When Craig LaBan checked in on Sa Bai Dee a little less than a year ago, he awarded it two bells, citing not blazing, over-the-top heat that is too often mistaken for authenticity, but the “vivid freshness and delicacy of the cooking.” Earthy turmeric and umami-rich, fish-based condiments like dried anchovies, crab paste and fish sauce lend depth to dishes. Yum moo yang sees slices of grilled pork loin served atop a seemingly pedestrian salad of tomatoes, cucumber and ribbons of red onion and bell pepper. But the salad is dressed with a fish sauce and dried chile-heavy vinaigrette that doesn’t mess around — salty, spicy-smoky and deeply savory.
The menu at Sa Bai Dee is written to be accessible, meaning that the Laotian dishes are a little more difficult to uncover, but there are a few specials mounted on the wall that you definitely won’t come across at your local Siam Lotus: Mok pla, catfish tucked into bamboo leaves and gently steamed, for one. Along with the familiar Southeast Asian palette of bird chiles, shallots, garlic, kaffir lime leaves and Thai basil, Sa Bai Dee’s mok pla features dill, creating a dish that reveals the subtle and fascinating ways in which Laotian cuisine sets itself apart. Also special is the way the sticky-sweet rice is served in a beautifully handwoven bamboo basket.
Sa Bai Dee | 7038 Terminal Square, 610-352-1119, sabaideethailaos.com. Hours: Sun. - Thu., 11 a.m. - 9:30 p.m.; Fri. - Sat., 11 a.m. - 10 p.m. Recommended dishes: Yum moo yang, chu chee duck, mok pla.
