New cocktail to try: Taqueria Feliz's Three Chile Margarita
Please note: This article is published as an archive copy from Philadelphia City Paper. My City Paper is not affiliated with Philadelphia City Paper. Philadelphia City Paper was an alternative weekly newspaper in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. The last edition was published on October 8, 2015.
Courtney Apple
Of all the drinks in all the bars in all the world, few have suffered as much injustice as the margarita. What once was a simple, lip-smackingly refreshing cocktail of tequila, lime juice and orange liqueur has degenerated since its inception in the 1930s or ’40s— assorted tales dispute the exact date of origin — into a sugared neon slush that has more in common with what’s spinning inside a Wawa ICEE machine.
It’s an undignified state of affairs for this senior statesman of the classic cocktail canon.
Some bars, like Calaca, Cantina and Taqueria Feliz, do it justice — eschewing Rose’s Lime Juice and sour mix for fresh citrus and agave or simple syrup. They do several versions of the classic, the most popular of which is the Three Chile, created by former Calaca Feliz bar manager Theresa Rimmer.
“People come in and say, ‘I’ve heard about the jalapeño margarita. I have to try it,’” says Taqueria GM Anthony Gualtieri. “The fact that [we use] fresh-squeezed juice really adds to the clean taste.”
Poblano, Fresno and jalapeño peppers bring the heat. “We let them steep in simple syrup, which picks up tons of good heat,” as well as muddle them in the shaker to order. Strained, the syrup joins the muddled chilies, Espolón Blanco tequila, fresh lime and triple sec for a vigorous shake. The margarita is poured over fresh rocks into a glass rimmed with a crimson halo of salt and chile pequin and garnished with lacy slices of fresh Fresnos and jalapeños.
“It’s got the perfect amount of heat to make you want to go back for more. Then you get the salt, and that makes you thirsty, so you go back for more,” and the cycle continues till your cup is dry and you flag down the bartender for a refill. It’s no wonder that Taqueria Feliz, margarita preservationist, sells 150 a week.
Get the recipe at citypaper.net/mealticket.
