Please note: This article is published as an archive copy from Philadelphia City Paper. My City Paper is not affiliated with Philadelphia City Paper. Philadelphia City Paper was an alternative weekly newspaper in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. The last edition was published on October 8, 2015.
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January 10–17, 2002
food
Under the Table
The news of the closing of Old Original Bookbinders was so enormous it made the front page of last Friday’s Inquirer. My first thought: Who cares? Most people of my generation (I’m 32) regarded the historic seafood spot as an overpriced tourist trap/business account-type place. There are too many "institutions" living on reputation alone — many with lots of PR help via our municipality’s tourism bureaus. Old Original owner John Taxin called in to speak with WIP morning-show host Angelo Cataldi, blaming the closing on a) the loss of tourist business in Philly due to the Sept. 11 attacks, b) the immense influx of competition over the past five-plus years, and c) upkeep of their enormous building. Taxin then practically begged for public financial support to save his restaurant. The plea, while heartfelt, left most filled with apathy. WIP midday co-host Anthony Gargano shared my sentiments, as did about 95 percent of the callers who checked in to voice their opinion. "With all the fine-dining establishments in town, it was a shame for Philadelphia dining to be defined by Bookbinders," Gargano told me. As recently as the mid-’90s, Old Original’s "seafood" competition consisted primarily of DiNardo’s Famous Crabs and the Bookbinders 15th Street Seafood House. Today there’s nationally acclaimed Striped Bass, along with more reasonably priced establishments, such as Anastasi Seafood, Philadelphia Fish & Co., Seafood Unlimited, McCormick & Schmick’s and Devon Seafood Grill. Athletes, tourists and corporate bigwigs shouldn’t have too much trouble finding another restaurant.
After about a six-month stint as executive chef at Philadelphia Fish & Co., Anthony Marini has been shown the door by owner Kevin Meeker. "I hope he’s in another state by now," said a peeved Meeker. Amy Coben is in as top toque. A graduate of the California Culinary Academy, she’s worked the line at Buddakan and was executive sous chef at Fishmarket.
This month marks the first anniversary of Cuba Libre, arguably the hottest restaubar in the city. As part of the celebration, dinner guests will receive a complimentary jar of guarapo (the fresh-squeezed sugarcane juice used to make mojitos) and a recipe book filled with chef Guillermo Veloso’s most popular dishes. The most exciting gift, however, will be the trip for two to the Caribbean for the person who orders Cuba Libre’s 100,000th mojito.… As mentioned a few weeks back, the crew from Let’s Cook with Paul Dillon— weeknights at 5:30 on CN8 — recently traveled to the Caribbean. The episodes are airing through the end of this week on the regional cable channel. Friday’s taping features Dillon cooking with his pal from City Tavern, Walter Staib.
Marc is the author of the $18 and UNDER dining guide. The 2002 update is now available at area bookstores.
