February 21–28, 2002

food

Chain for the Better

The Philly Roy’s is the 32nd in the nation, but this chain’s success is built on good food, not gimmicks.

by Maxine Keyser

Roy’s

124 S. 15th St., 215-988-1814. Dinner, Mon.-Thu., 5-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat., 5-11 p.m., Sun., 5-9 p.m. Wheelchair accessible. Reservations necessary. All major credit cards.

Roy-alty: David Price, executive chef at Roy’s on 15th and Sansom.

You know how it is at most chain restaurants. The manager and much of the staff have been well-trained, possibly at other locations, and they can deliver the spiel of "Our Special Favorites" or "Our Secret Recipe." Usually these pronouncements involve large slabs of meat or different varieties of fish, but at Roy’s, the Hawaiian-fusion restaurant newly opened at 15th and Sansom, the server, wearing a Hawaiian shirt, smiling and greeting you, "Aloha!" is greatly aided by the menu itself.

Written in a folksy style ("We think this is wonderful with…" or "amazingly good with…"), the menu leaves very little to the imagination. There’s an asterisk beside all of Roy Yamaguchi’s original Hawaiian-fusion dishes, but they all seem to be basically Asian influences that you’ll find in Hawaii anyway. Except for a misplaced osso buco, all the food appears to be the fresh, ingredient-driven, fish-fruit cuisine of the islands. Of course, the impressive list of wines and sakes is geared especially to enhance the food. In fact, entrepreneur extraordinaire Yamaguchi has his own line of potables to promote. That this is a very commercial operation is obvious from the second you arrive, but don’t let it spoil your enjoyment of the evening. There are some very good dishes and interesting combinations to be had at Roy’s.

Once seated in the spacious dining room (another former bank), you are impressed by the fact that, though the cavernous white ceiling and peach walls are hard, the carpeted floor and heavy draperies prevent the room from being too noisy. The walls are also hung with Hawaiian prints, and a row of banquettes bisects the room, while cozy booths rim the outside of it. A huge exposed kitchen lies across from bar, which is hidden behind frosted glass. There’s also a second level with wooden lattice railings that might make for interesting people watching. After settling, relax, knowing that, between the menu and the waiter, you needn’t worry about a thing, for all decisions will practically be made for you.

One menu page states "Roy’s Classics," and from there we chose his original blackened ahi appetizer ($13), which definitely deserves its classic status. A large slice of deep-red tuna is enhanced by soy-mustard butter and little squiggles of beurre blanc for added depth. With this we drink Roy’s Santa Barbara Chardonnay ($11 a glass), with its nuances of butterscotch, which goes equally well with an entree, Roy’s classic, seared, roasted macadamia-nut-crusted mahi mahi ($23). It all tastes fine, but it needed the lobster butter sauce as accompaniment, because our portion was woefully overcooked.

From the chef’s nightly specials, we must have their version of a pu-pu platter, which is called Roy’s nightly dim-sum-style canoe for two ($26). It indeed arrives in a canoe, filled with Szechuan-grilled baby back ribs that are scrumptious; Hawaii Kai crab cakes that look like little crab muffins; chicken pot stickers that are the tastiest of the lot, with very tender skins and spicy filling; and seafood shumai, also tender, if a trifle bland. Another big hit on the tray: the crispy coconut shrimp sticks, our old cocktail-party faves on a skewer. All in all, it’s a pretty attractive platter, and plenty for two. Again the Chardonnay does its job.

There’s definitely meat on the menu, like rack of lamb ($29) and a pork chop ($19), but fish seems to be the way to go. I remember beach boys in Hawaii diving off the rocks and spearing fish — I assume I’ll have that wonderful fresh taste again. Except for the mahi mahi, all of our entrees prove to be delicious. And now, encouraged by our waiter, we try sake as our drinks. With the Pacific opah ($24), which is dusted with basil and peppercorns and bears a Cabernet reduction sauce, we drink a glass of Y Sky ($13), which is flowery and has a whisper of sweetness to go well with this meaty, peppery fish and the heat of the wasabi mashed potatoes. The sake, of course, is drunk cold, and the dimension it lends to these dishes is astonishing. Y Wind ($14) is our choice with black bass wrapped in rice paper ($26). The flavorful package of fish floats in a pond of red Thai curry nage, and the Wind has a clear-cut, flinty dryness that complements the dish’s pristine components. There’s also a relish of gingered cucumber and tomatoes to give it zest.

But I must vote the misoyaki butterfish ($24) the best of all. This is really black cod, in sensuous, silken folds, served over greenish squiggles of wasabi spaetzle and dotted with uni crème fraîche and a lobster miso nage. The fire power of the wasabi, the slight sweetness of the miso and the natural buttery creaminess of the fish, are enhanced by a glass of Y Snow ($12.50) that is almost as creamy, with tropical fruit flavors. All the entrees were garnished with a strange, slightly bitter green vegetable, which we are told is similar to broccoli rabe. Having the sakes was an adventure that heightened the excellence of the fish.

Desserts in Hawaii will always depend on the wealth of fresh fruit that grows there. We try one chocolate dessert — a cake of chocolate mousse with macadamia brittle pieces in the ganache ($6), and we love it. Tropical sorbets ($6) such as mango and pineapple are creamy and refreshing and full of natural flavor. I must try the sogo sake passion ($7) which is really not the dreaded tapioca of childhood but sweet green pearls, drifting with chunks of kiwi, papaya, mango and pineapple in a milky, soothing soup. Not for everyone, but definitely for me and my passion for unexpected textures. We finish the meal with La Colombe coffee ($2) and chai ($2.25), that spicy Indian tea that is popular right now.

An evening at Roy’s is an experience and an education. Executive chef Ruth Rasmussen does an able job of translating Roy’s recipes and adding her own personality to the cuisine. The staff is so able and the menu so thorough that it’s like being in the Land of the Lotus-Eaters, drifting along in your own tropical paradise. Sure, it’s commercial, but with 32 restaurants in the United States, they are definitely doing something right. The entire operation is a tribute to one man’s colossal ego, and, for once, it works.