November 23–30, 2000

food

Quiet Strength

Magnum Opus: Chef Stuart Pellegrino photo: Maria Kotsikoros

by Maxine Keyser

Opus 251

251 S. 18th St. (Art Alliance), 215-735-6787.

Lunch: Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner: Mon.-Sat., 5-10 p.m.; Sun., 4:30-8:30 p.m. Sunday Brunch: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Pre-theater three-course prix fixe ($29): Mon.-Fri., 5-6:30 p.m. No wheelchair access (but servers have been known to carry wheelchairs up the front steps). Reservations suggested. All major credit cards.

Since 1926, the Philadelphia Art Alliance has occupied the historic Wetherill mansion on Rittenhouse Square, embodying Christine Wetherill Stevenson’s vision of an intimate environment conducive to the appreciation of all art forms. "In the room the women come and go, talking of Michelangelo" — only these days they may also be talking about the food.

The muted décor of the Alliance’s restaurant, Opus 251, shows off the building’s classic bones. Votive candles flicker against the textured, taupe silk walls and gold leaf chinoiserie forms a glowing dado around the top. Crystal chandeliers and the rosy glow from the cozy bar shine through the Italianate windows onto the hidden garden. Gusty winds blow leaves about the garden now, but still it stands, full of wintry anticipation.

We wait at that little bar while our table is being set, and have a vodka gimlet ($7.50) and some Sauvignon Blanc ($7 a glass). I’m eager to try the cuisine of the new chef, Stuart Pellegrino, who has succeeded Guy Sileo, who in turn took the reins from Alfonso Constriciani. Pellegrino, a Johnson & Wales grad, cooked at Rouge and Brasserie Perrier before coming here. Constriciani had put a firm, identifiable stamp on Opus’ food. Will we see a difference? We’ll soon find out.

The young waitress is capable and eager to please. She warns me away from the crabcake because she says there’s a bit of a wait for that. A menu standard ($14), it now sports a sweet corn flan and a red pepper coulis. Sounds good, but I’ll turn to something new and uninvolved. The deep rose prosciutto ($11) covers my plate in transparent slices and mixes its dry, meaty flavor with sweet roasted figs and a crouton spread with plum relish. The dish is simplicity itself; its success lies in the quality of the ingredients.

The paupiette of smoked salmon ($12) works for the same reason. The generous slice of russet salmon, streaked with pink, forms a package stuffed with a zesty salmon tartar and tied neatly with a chive ribbon. That’s it, except for a fluff of spring mix on the side, but the salmon is so silky, with such a light smoke, that it makes the dish — and has me wondering if it’s done in house. Both the ham and the smoked salmon are complemented by the assorted warm breads, one sweet with raisins, one classic French.

There’s also seared foie gras with caramelized pears ($14), or oysters with a champagne mignonette ($12), or the ubiquitous endive, pears and Maytag blue cheese salad ($7), but I can already see that Pellegrino has pared down the menu and cleaned it up. Before, it belonged to the "everything-on-the-plate" school of cuisine. The dish descriptions read like the inventory of a gourmet market. Now you get a few buzzwords — truffle jus, Spätzle, cockles, Swiss chard — but that’s about it. The dishes speak for themselves.

Our main course choices are quite varied. They run the gamut from elaborate options like veal medallions with porcini risotto ($29) and "Bouillabaisse Opus" ($28) to crispy skinned chicken ($21). I always like to try the daily suggestions, so we order a simple grilled sirloin ($28), which is a good test for any kitchen, and a rabbit stew ($26), something novel and ambitious.

Pellegrino rises to the challenge — the sirloin, aged to tender juiciness, is superb, with or without the mushroom bordelaise sauce that naps it. Bacon bits and blue cheese sparkle in the creamy mashed potatoes, and crisp haricots verts are a bright green punctuation. My only complaint is a slight over-salting in the sauce and the potatoes.

There’s a little over-seasoning too, in the rabbit stew, a too-heavy dose of sage and rosemary. Despite this, the dish is a triumph, and a marvelous idea — a cassoulet of rabbit, using shreds of dark meat as a base for the mix of pearl onions and white beans. On top, instead of a breadcrumb crust, are tender pieces of white meat, with their own breaded coating. It’s all bubbly and dark, and every bite is a surprise. And what’s more, it’s good for you! Rabbit is one of the lowest cholesterol, highest protein meats extant, and what a happy thing for a chilly autumn evening. Glasses of Côte du Rhône wines ($8) are perfect with this gutsy kind of food.

Tabetha Tomaselli still does the desserts, i.e. the signature Opus "lantern" ($8) that lights up many tables. It’s a concoction of chocolate mousse cake, crème brulée and a frozen parfait, but I want something I haven’t had before.

Sushi pudding rolls ($7) are clever, but not so clever that they sacrifice taste for effect. The chef has rounded sugar cookies into cylinders, filled them with creamy rice pudding, studded with tea-soaked cherries and set them out like rolls of — sushi! It’s rather like eating a sugar cone filled with pudding instead of ice cream, and ties into the current vogue for puddings in all forms. Nursery desserts are making their way from across the pond, and I, for one, am happy to receive them. A pumpkin crème brulée ($8) crackles with pecans in the sugary crust, and bears just a hint of savory spices in its milky depths.

Opus 251 is no longer a work in progress, but a restaurant that has found its thrust and destination. Pellegrino has trimmed things just enough, so that the individual ingredients have a chance to shine. I like to see seasonal vegetables like pumpkin, ruby chard and cipolline onions, with American products like Lancaster rabbit and Coach Farm goat cheese among them. I like to sit in a serene and civilized dining room where I can hear my companion’s conversation. And though the lovely garden wears winter drab, I can only remember Shelley’s words, "If winter comes, can spring be far behind?"