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					Also this issue: Heavyweight Champ -Alex Richmond

July 3- 9, 2003

food

Diva Fever

Three-part harmony: Chef Steve Vassalluzzoâs roasted red pepper insalata la stupenda. Photo By: Michael T. Regan

Opera-loving Caffé Casta Diva hits a sure note.

by Maxine Keyser

Small Italian BYOB restaurants have been establishing beachheads in row houses all over Center City, Bella Vista and South Philly lately. Obviously, this is a town that has always been heavily into Italian cooking offered at a moderate price, and these places fill a definite need. Not for everyone are the elegant creations of Marc Vetri or Toto Schiavone, or Lance Holton of the defunct Avenue B. Most people seem to crave red sauce, gallons of it, and these little places have a warm, familial feeling. But since there are so many, what differentiates one from another? They’re all cramped, noisy and serve large portions. Their construction is fairly bare-bones, and bringing your own wine helps keep the bill down. So I approach Caffé Casta Diva warily. It has gotten good reviews so far, and is usually packed, but what makes it the Italian restaurant du jour?

As I expect, the decor is very restrained: pale gray stucco walls, old wrought-iron sconces, a large lantern hanging from the pressed tin ceiling, with ladderback chairs, white tablecloths and the attractive touch of a large, antique mirror on the far wall. One difference is the music -- the glorious strains of opera that continue throughout the evening and name the dishes on the limited menu. They also give the restaurant its own name -- I'll wager Casta Diva refers to the aria "Chaste Goddess" from the Bellini opera Norma.

With Celeste Aida playing, we open our wine and enjoy the rosemary-flecked focaccia that stands in, happily, for plain old bread. The "insalata la stupenda" arrives on a plate that is painted with balsamic vinegar and infused oil and sprinkled with chopped parsley, as is the style in pricier places. It is a vertical salad, field greens topping roasted red peppers and half a grilled artichoke resting against this tower. It is crisp, refreshing and the artichoke is especially delicious. A dish of eggplant rolls filled with melting soft goat cheese and asparagus tips is presented as three cylinders with asparagus peeking from them, napped with melted cheese. It's a fine dish -- the meaty, smoky eggplant is a good foil for the creamy cheeses; if only the asparagus was not quite so crisp as to require a knife to cut it.

The pasta of the day is spaghetti carbonara, one of my favorites, and though I have never seen it made with green and yellow strands, it is first-rate. The noodles, clearly made in-house, have just the right amount of firmness, while the pancetta adds its saltiness to the emulsion of egg and cheese that forms the creamy sauce. Another pasta, "alla Puccini," is my partner's choice of entree, as he is vegetarian. (Vegetarians can always find something to eat in Italian restaurants.) This time it's tender crepes for a northern Italian touch, bursting with ricotta cheese, the sharpness of basil and spinach and a torrent of red sauce -- flavorful but lacking brio. I do my Italian-restaurant test by ordering vitello alla scala, a simply breaded veal cutlet, sometimes topped with a bit of salad. The veal is pounded just a little too much, and the salad, usually arugula and tomato, has too much raw onion for my taste. Other than that, the breading is crisp and golden, the accompanying dab of risotto is soft and pleasant and the asparagus is still tough. (Ristorante Panorama is still my all-time veal cutlet winner.)

But desserts, usually a weak spot in most Italian trattorias, are terrific. Their tiramisu, served in a big goblet, is rich and creamy and the lady fingers are literally soaked with brandy so that it all comes together in a semi-solid, delightful mess. The gianduia (chocolate hazelnut) gelato tastes right off of a Florentine street-corner stand.

We finish off the wine to a song from Carmen, having thoroughly enjoyed the meal and the music. The young staff is pleasant and helpful, and there is a freshness about the atmosphere and the food that is difficult to duplicate. Chef/owner Steve Vassalluzzo, a physicist at Temple University, always wanted to be a chef. (The famous painter Ingres always wanted to be a violinist, so he painted to make a living, and played the violin for pleasure.) I don't know how much he could have made at physics, but I'm glad that Vassalluzzo opted to go with his hobby. He's a friendly guy, stopping at every table to greet his guests, and when I realize that I don't have enough cash to pay the bill (they should say they only accept cash when you call for a table), he says, "Oh, you'll give it to me the next time." I send a check that night, but I will be back for a next time.

Caffé Casta Diva

227 S. 20th St., 215-496-9677

Appetizers, $6-$8; entrees, $13-$24

Tue.-Sat., 5-10:30 p.m.

Not wheelchair accessible. Smoking is not permitted. Reservations suggested. Cash only. BYOB.