December 18-24, 2003

food

Sublime State

Calm before the OM: Bliss' uncluttered plate of red snapper with sweet and sour sauce leaves plenty of room for thought. Photo By: Michael T. Regan

For his latest endeavor, Francesco Martorella has a faraway look in his eye.

by Maxine Keyser

For a man who has been a partner of Georges Perrier at Brasserie Perrier and endured the vicissitudes of Neil Stein’s Avenue B and the corporate clamor of Stephen Starr’s Pod, opening his own restaurant must indeed be Bliss. So Francesco Martorella has aptly named his new restaurant, and many may find themselves to be in a constant state of bliss there, but for others, it may come in snatches.

Arriving in the Broad Street locale, former home of Noodle Heaven, could definitely induce a state approaching nirvana. The handsome, bi-level restaurant, another winner from DAS Architects, is done in honeyed tones of oak, while a backlit rear glass wall of blue waves illuminates the room. The water theme is echoed in a blue-tiled floor and a glass mosaic above the bar. There is a handsome square bar right in the middle of the room, but the 20- and 30-something girls who scramble up there to survey the scene are in for a disappointment. All the guys are engrossed in the Sixers game on the TV, however mute, that hovers over the bar. This is, to me, a distraction, and apparently the feeling is shared by many of my fellow diners. The room is full of players, all table-hopping and air-kissing, and I listened to their complaints.

There are no complaints about the food, however, for of the 18 items on the menu, there are many old favorites from Martorella's previous cuisine incarnations, and some dandy new ones. With an Italian background, French training and a stint at Pod, he brings a little of each cuisine to his menu, and though, Marco Polo aside, I have never seen much in Asian influences on Italian food, I must admit that some of it really works. The tempura of rock shrimp, with a nod to Starr, wears the lightest of batters over the melting little shrimp, and adds nuggets of sweet butternut squash to the mix. A rosy carpaccio of tuna, silken and meaty, gets a pleasant jolt from the addition of ginger and lime and the marine skeins of a seaweed salad. A terrine comprising layers of crisped potatoes and goat cheese is tart and comforting, and well-placed beside a warm frisée salad with hints of bacon. It's most assuredly French, and may be an approximation of a similar dish at Brasserie Perrier.

Having had a good Grey Goose martini with the carpaccio, I only wanted some wine by the glass. This was fortunate, because the list is representative, but, well, just a bit high-range. A Kistler 2001 Chardonnay for $150?

Anyway, a Cabernet Sauvignon is just right with a rosemary-scented lamb shank that was not overwhelmingly huge as some tend to be, but "falling off the bone" as others can only aspire to. Parsnip purée is a good accompaniment and a lovely way to present a much-maligned vegetable. It's interesting that there is only one pasta on the menu, a gnocchi appetizer with sun-dried tomato pesto. Some of the pastas that I recall from Avenue B were wonderful, but I think Martorella is using more of the Asian touches than anything. There's a gingery chicken breast with bok choy and wasabi rice, stir-fried red chili prawns with Chinese celery, tiger shrimp rolls and happily crispy red snapper, absolutely delicious with a complex sweet and sour sauce whose ingredients I won't even endeavor to guess.

Back to Italy though, for a companion's daily special -- sweet and tender turbot on a bed of polenta with the metallic sheen of saffron, and broccoli rabe for a bitter edge. I shall, next time, try the porcini-dusted salmon, with a Sardinian clam couscous and a truffle sauce, which was praised by others. Also mentioned was the duck breast and confit of leg with Savoy cabbage and port wine sauce. And how bad can a risotto of lobster and butternut squash ever be?

Bliss certainly looks like the "in" spot right now, and Chef Martorella circles the room, greeting regulars and old friends. Our efficient waiter reminds us about dessert, and all look good, vaguely Italian, but not earth-shattering: The créme brèlée is very creamy, but not unusual. The mocha semifreddo has great flavor but is barely frozen -- more like a mousse. Best of all is a tart citrus panna cotta, quivering beside some sweet grilled pineapple.

Francesco Martorella is a formidable chef who was named an "American Super-Chef" by Food & Wine magazine, and who has gained many other honors. His approach to cooking is seasonal and global, resulting in combinations that may be unexpected, but are never forced. In fact, his menu is the essence of simplicity, allowing natural flavors and judicious seasoning to shine. It is by no means inexpensive (with $5 for sides and $7 for desserts tacked on), but it is safe food for people with deep pockets. Right now, the only off-note seems to be the TV at the bar, but I hear that the risotto beignets on the bar menu are worth having to watch Iverson score yet again. Don't get me wrong -- I'm all for the Sixers winning, but not when I'm trying to concentrate on the sophisticated food in front of me. With my back to the bar, I could even reach a state of bliss.

Bliss

220-224 S. Broad St.; 215-731-1100

Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.- 2:30 p.m. and 5-11 p.m.; Sat., 5-11 p.m.; Sun., 4-9 p.m.

Appetizers, $7-$12; entrees, $18-$32

Wheelchair accessible. Smoking is not permitted. Reservations recommended. All major credit cards.

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