Please note: This article is published as an archive copy from Philadelphia City Paper. My City Paper is not affiliated with Philadelphia City Paper. Philadelphia City Paper was an alternative weekly newspaper in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. The last edition was published on October 8, 2015.
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Also this issue: Diva Fever |
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July 3- 9, 2003
food
Heavyweight Champ
Fourth of July means cookouts and generally beer. But why not upgrade your holiday barbecue by serving champagne? What better drink goes with fireworks than the one that makes a big, satisfying pop when you open it, and fizzes all the way down your throat?
Before you go, "Ooh, fancy," remember that it doesn't have to be Cristal or anything; you are not Jay-Z. Champagne has a false reputation as being for nobility, or something for special occasions. Bust it out any time. And it doesn't have to cost a lot: You can get good bottles of sparkling wine for less than $15. (Andre, Capri or Cook's cost around $5.49, but as a rule never, ever buy cheapo champagnes. They're a headache in a glass.) If sweetness especially icks you out, look for Brut varieties that are drier.
Mid-priced sparkling wines can be great. Roederer is available right now for $20.99, and Jordan J costs around $33.
If you really want to stretch your champagne budget though, use it for cocktails. Mimosas are always an option. Adding a shot's worth of cognac is traditional enough: It cuts any sweetness while adding depth and flavor. My favorite addition is Pimm's No. 1, which brings beautiful color and a spicy cardamom taste.
What about in clubs? When a brand-name vodka tonic can cost as much as $8.50, having a glass of champagne or a champagne cocktail might look extravagant but can be a bargain. Valanni has one that looks like a sunset and tastes like a vacation. The Brazilian Pop ($6.50) is a perfectly layered trio of grenadine syrup, mango puree and champagne on top. Bar manager Alex Dartois says they sell a lot of them, which is how they keep the cost so low. With some beers costing $5, why not?
Having champagne with dinner can also be reasonable. Roger Main is Adriatica's general manager, and selects all the wines they serve: 150 by the bottle and 28 by the glass. They sell 11 kinds of sparkling wines by the bottle and three by the glass, ranging from $6.75 to $9.75 -- and Main makes sure all of them go well with food.
Main loves champagne. "My philosophy is, when you can't decide between white and red, choose champagne. It's effervescent, so it starts the juices flowing, more so than a chardonnay. If you order something with a cream sauce, it cuts right through to cleanse your palate. It is awesome with seafood or with a raw bar [and] can stand up to the richness of red meat. It is the most versatile and overlooked wine category in the world."
Champagne can be simple. Just chill it (not too much) and pour it in a tall glass. Main says, "I'm a purist. I don't like to dress the glass. I think the bottle should be chilled, the glass not. I think a simple approach means more."
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